I think good potters make good pots with good clay, and great potters make great pots with terrible clay. What do you think?
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This pot is from 1998. It was fired for days in a wood kiln in Wilimina, Oregon. It is constructed from coils, with a troweled surface. It does not hold water.
This pot is from the same fire as the one above. It is also from the same clay. The clay was taken from a garbage can that contained the slaking trimmings, scraps, and throw-aways of the Ceramics Department at the Oregon College of Art and Craft, where I then was employed. I took this clay and added fire clay and Helmar Kaolin to it until it was workable. Then I took it home. The clay was nearly unworkable. It had chunks of leather hard clay in it the size of marbles. This was OK with me, because I was working with an old Shimpo wheel with a suicide-shift speed-control that sputtered and started and was entirely unable to keep a constant speed.
This pot was from that clay too, but from a different fire. It was made in the same garage, on the same wheel. I was only trying to bisque-fire a kiln full of pots for a wood-fire in Grass Valley, CA. I should have used a pyrometric cone. I have no idea how hot it got in there, but it was more than bisque. I was petty unhappy with the pots from that fire, because they were not what I had wanted, but now I think this is one of the best I have made. I like it because so little has been done to the clay. The fire was in a soft-brick, updraft, cylindrical kiln, fueled by propane. The kiln lid was made of fiberfax and hardware cloth. When I put the lid on, the hardware cloth burned and melted with a sick greenish flame and a thick smoke.
This pot is from the fall of 1995, I think. I know it is from a Grass Valley wood fire, which means it was fired for hours in a glaze-type kiln. I made it specifically for that firing. If it is from when I think it is, this was my second fire at G.V.. There is talk of another this fall. I made the pot with stoneware clay that had big chunks of feldspar in it. When I went to load it in a bisque kiln, it was about an eighth of an inch too tall, so I took it out and rubbed its bottom on the cement floor. That did the trick. I glazed it in a shino-style glaze, but I dipped it in water first, so that the glaze would stay thin on the pot. This is one of my favorites. I was thrilled when I saw it come from the kiln
This pot is from the Grass Valley kiln, too. The kiln is at the John Wolman School. It is a seven-chamber, hill-climbing kiln of the noborigama style. We fire it with cedar. A few times we have gone to the forest or a snag, which we cut ourselves. The one I remember best was a one-hundred-eighty year old, ten year dead, two-and-a-half-foot-thick, bone dry tree. We found it a hundred feet above an old logging road, dropped it, cut it into rounds, and loaded about two chords (use the form above to correct me if I am wrong here, Tom) into the truck. The wood splits great. The pot is some bland stoneware with a white slip over it, and markings that are sgriffito, I guess. I put the slip on at the wheel, and scratched the design in there too. I made this pot at the Oregon College of Art and Craft, when it was still a school. I glazed it in celedon, and the unglazed band is the result of a low level of glaze in the bucket. One dip from the top, one from the bottom, and never the twain shall meet. If there had been enough glaze to get the whole thing, there would be a band of double-thick glaze, because that's the kind of potter I am. I try to find ways to make things look good with the resouces I have at hand. To facilitate this, I have cultivated a style that some woud surely consider sloppy. I don't like firing bad pots, though.
The bottom chamber of the Grass Valley kiln is really a firemouth. It fires longer than any of the glaze chambers. Once it is fired off, the stoking moves to the next chamber up the hill. The primary air for that chamber comes through the firemouth. Likewise, when the first chamber is fired, the stoking moves to the next chamber, and so on up the hill. I think one reason that the later chambers fire so fast is that the primary air is heated by the lower chambers before it burns the fuel. With that theory in mind, I made this piece, and others like it, to sit in the firemouth, absorb and radiate heat. They are radiators. Actually, they are a bit small to really have much impact on the heat transfer through the firemouth, but it's the thought that counts, right? I made this piece (piece, hmm. It's a funny term. I didn't make the piece of clay, I handled it. I suppose artifact is a better word, but it sounds pretentious.) in 1996, I think, for my third fire at Grass Valley. A really good trick that Tom Orr told me for checking the heat in a kiln is to look into the cracks on the inside of the chamber and see the color there. Wear special glasses to look into hot kilns. The clay is a helmar kaolin based wood fire clay of my own devising. I might post the formula someday. Ask for it, using the form above, and I will surely email it to you.
This pot is from Grass Valley, too. I made it in 1999, in my garage in San Jose. It is really two pinch-pots, joined in the middle.
This is another pot from Grass Valley. I made it in 1997, I think. I was at the Oregon College of Art and Craft, and I made a bunch of pots for one of the Grass Valley firings. They were very heavy, and a lot of them did not have good feet. I think feet are very important, but I do not like to trim pots upside down on a potters wheel for two reasons: First, a lot of the tops of pots I make are asymetrical and, this may be a third point, they may be marked by the process. Second, to trim with a trim-tool, I would have to get to the pot at a very specific moisture content. Since I have almost always had to commute to a studio, this is not always possible. Consequntly, I have put a great deal of effort into developing pottery forms that can succeed with feet that are either carved right at the wheel or later, as late as leather- hard. In the case of this body of work, I liked the forms, but was unsatisfied with the feel of the pots. I went into the studio the next day and cut the bottoms off the pots, set them aside, and used a trim-tool to carve out the inside of the pots. I then re-attached the bottoms. In some cases I paddled the pots after that. I think this is a curious case of form following function, because usually, in pottery, function refers to the functionality of the pot for the (non-ceramic industry term comming) end-user. Here it is form following the functionality of the tools and time-constranints of the potter.
I made this pot in 1998, at San Jose State University. When I moved to California, I tried to make some time for pottery. In my first appartment, it was pretty hard, because I had no basement or garage. I tried signing up for an open-studion class at SJSU. Aside from some bureaucratic hassle, it was a really good place to make pots. The students were interesting, and the facility is a good one. For me, though, it was hard to make the time. My fiancee lived three hours South of the Bay Area, so I visited her on weekends, and nights after work it was hard to make the time. I would often get to the studio at nine or ten, and, with work the next day, I had a hard time staying late. I made this and a few other pots. This is my favorite. It is gas-fired to cone ten. I took special care of this pot right off the wheel. It did not want to hold its shape at first, so I inflated it by blowing into the lip. I held it upside down for ten minutes so that it would set a bit before I put it on a shelf.
I made this pot in October of 1993, at the Stark Street Studio in Portland, Oregon. It was one of the first pots I made after I got to Portland. It is coil built. It is glazed with borax and iron oxide. It is fired to a high bisque. This was such an innocent and optimistic time, I get all misty thinking about it.
I think this pot is from 1997. I know it was fired in Grass Valley. I had a lot of clay sitting around, and I knew the firing was coming up. I threw a bunch of forms, most of which were heavier than I wanted them to be. There were some things I liked about them, but not too much. I do remember blowing into some of them to help them keep their shape when I took them off the wheel. Bats are such a pain. A few days later I went it to the studio to work on the pots. They were dryer than I wanted. I paddled them. Some of them I cut the bottoms out of and removed clay from the inside with a trimming tool, then re-attached the bottom, then paddled again. Others I did this to the top. Some cracked. This is when I started to like the pots. The glazes at Grass Valley are chunky, and I washed this pot in one glaze that is essentially mud from Nevada then covered it in a white glaze.